Rediscovering India through travel and photography: Jaipur

Albert Hall in Jaipur

The city that can be called master reference book for architectural and town planning, the city that has been cultivating not just customs and colorful festive rituals but also has been nurturing a rich part of vibrant civilization encompassing art and artisans, architecture and planning, science and astronomy, religion and astrology. Also known as the Pink city, Jaipur the capital city of largest state of India, for which Reginald Heber, Bishop of Calcutta in during his 1824 visit said “looking at the walled city and its minarets I feel like I am in Kremlin, Moscow”; such was the visionary town planning of Jaipur.

Night Lights of Jaipur view from hill

Jaipur is one of the very few surviving and thriving planned city of medieval India, rest like Vijaynagar-Hampi, Fatehpur Sikri have been reduced to heritage monuments after being in ruins and deserted by population. But pink city is living not just by its architecture but by its culture and people.

Named after and founded in 1727 AD by Kachchwaha dynasty ruler Sawai Jaisingh II of Amber, Jaipur was planned for two primary reasons; firstly Amber was cramped by hills on all sides and there was no further scope for growing population’s settlement, secondly after Aurangzeb’s death in 1707AD Mughals in Delhi were losing their grip on India and the Sawai Jaisingh II thought of planning a safe city. But not just any ordinary planned city, site of proposed city a vast plane surrounded by Aravali hills on three sides, and having ample ground water, was both secured and viable for its estimated two hundred thousand strong populations at that time, hills and jungles could provide the stones and other construction materials needed to build the city.

Amber Palace Gate

Sawai Jai Singh II roped in the most renowned architect and planner of the time, a Bengali man Vidhyadhar Bhattacharya, who planned the Jaipur city on grid system, where wide roads would meet each other at right angle. The king, a town planner and expert in astrology himself, engaged famous Marathi astrologer Jagannath for Vedic rituals, Vastu planning and Navgrah Shanti according to Hindu traditions.

One of Gate Ways of Parkota

Parallel markets avenues had further grid based lanes connecting those every few meters. It was rectangles within rectangles with symmetry. In all the markets shops till today wear uniform exterior, all these were arranged in nine rectangular city sectors (chowkdis) in accordance to the ancient Hindu map of universe. For security from enemy and wild animals the city was surrounded by strong 27 feet high and 9 feet wide crenellated masonry wall, called as “Parkota”, with seven monumental imposing gateways - Dhruvapol (now known as Zorawar Singh Gate) on the north, Gangapol and Surajpol on the east, Rampol (now known as Ghat Gate), Shivpol (now known as Sanganeri Gate) and Kishanpol (now known as Ajmeri Gate) on the south, and Chandpol on the west. All these gates were named after and built in accordance with the planetary positions.

Every market, every by-lane was meant for a specific trade or business or artisans. Buildings were made of red stones which later when repainted in 1876, during the visit of the Prince of Wales, Edward VII, gave the city its popular name, Pink City.

City Palace

It’s a well known historical fact that when Aurangzeb was destroying temples and their idol craftsmen, art and artists were losing patronage and respect they used to enjoy from the time of Akbar, at such time the Amber rulers invited the artisans and artists from all over the country to settle here, Sawai Jaisingh II gave refuge and respect to singers, dancers, poets, writers, astrologers, painters and sculptors. A dedicated 1 km long “Murti Mohalla” was settled with sculptors alone.

Serene JalMahal

Such was the town planning and market set up three centuries ago that it is intact till now, Jaipur has expanded and may have become cosmopolitan and modern malls may have come up but about four million population of Jaipur and thousands of tourists still throng the walled city for its shopping, eating and ever enchanting vibrant experience.

The city is not just for tourists looking for architectural marvels, Jaipur is delight for shoppers, paradise for foodies and for religious people Jaipur is known as “Chhoti Kashi” after its numerous Shiva temples across the city, next only to ancient city Varanasi.

Jantar Mantar- a UNESCO Heritage Site

For tourists yet to see the city, Jaipur may evoke the image of bearded and moustached Rajput warriors in their armours with swords in hands with backdrop of the forts and royal queens in their elaborate dresses and jewellery, but allure of Jaipur is well beyond its royal history, architecture in forts, palaces and temples, planning in township and markets, the charm of Jaipur is in its vibrant traditions, colourful festivities, artists and artisans, its food and above all its people and their politeness, their Padharo Mhrare Desh (welcome to my state), Athiti Devo Bhav (guest is god) and helping attitude, which makes the city one of the most tourist friendly city in India. Not just that, a leading national magazine in its survey found Jaipur to be most happy city in the country. Link

The politeness, welcoming, lively and optimistic attitude of its residents and rich colourful life experience is probably what attracted the British film maker John Madden to the city to make “The best exotic marigold hotel” based on Deborah Moggach’s novel in which a group of British oldies come to Jaipur to settle after their retirement.

Balloon Ride over Historic Forts in Amber

But settling apart, the elite city is a tourist’s joy, a fairytale to be discovered, a charm to be lived, the city’s royal monuments give, one a chance to feel like prince or princess for the day through their vibrant and splendorous architecture, if Islamic-architecture of Agra and Delhi is about symmetry and majesty, Rajput architecture of Pink City is about royalty, opulence, vivid colors, bright-vibrant wall paintings, palaces-forts of strategic importance and innovations like Sheesh-Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) where walls also have mirrors and precious stones plastered into it at the Amber-fort (added to UNESCO world heritage in June 2013), Jaigarh Fort, City-Palace, Nahargarh, Jal Mahal, Gator ki Chatriyan, Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds the signature identity of Jaipur) and Albert Hall museum; a visit there can make you feel emperor in your imaginations, one wonders at the amount of details and colours at every corner of these buildings. The Jantar Mantar in itself is example of vedic astronomy and science depicted through architecture, and all its Yantras are working to the precision even today, that is perhaps why it’s a UNESCO world heritage site. All these sophisticated and beautiful marvels define great Indian civilization through glory of her architectural legacy.

For example here is what British poet and writer Sir Edwin Arnold said about famous Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) which was dedicated to Lord Krishna and lover Radha by its designer Lal Chand,

"Vision of daring and dainty loveliness, of storeys of rosy masonry and delicate overhanging balconies and latticed windows. Soaring with tier after tier of fanciful architecture in a pyramidal form, a very mountain of airy and audacious beauty through the thousand pierced screen and gilded arches of which the Indian air blows cool over the roofs of the very highest house. Aladdin’s magician could have called into existence no more marvellous abode.” -Sir Edwin Arnold

Mayur(peacock) dance with Lord Krishna and Gopis

From architecture to festivities and traditions, Jaipur has most vibrant rich and colourful festivals celebrated all round the year, apart from major Hindu and Muslim festivals like Diwali, Holi, Rakshabandhan, Eid etc. the pink city has its own festivals like The Elephant Festival in March on the eve of Holi, Gangaur festival which worships Goddess Gauri, Teej which takes place in monsoon signifies the devotion towards Goddess Parvati, are great to take part in or watch for a tourist, the colours, costumes, elaborate yatras with elephants, camels and horses are trademark Jaipur touch to festivals.

Elephant festival- decorated Gajraj

For the shoppers, Jaipur is everything enchanting, in its walled city which has separate market for each line of shopping from handicrafts to gems and jewellery to textile it has got all. A walk through Chaura Rasta, Tripolia, Badi Chowpar , Johri Bajar can make a tourist’s window shopping experience unforgettable and dreamlike exotic.

Tourist with impressionist as Saint

If there is Lal Ji Saand Rasta for Saares, Khajane walon ka rasta is for Marble Statues, Lakheron ka rasta for Lakh ki chudiyan (bangles), Patang walas for patang (kites), Ram Ganj Bazaar for Mojri (traditional footwear), Jhori Bazar for jewellery and Bandhej Prints. There are dedicated markets for even Indian classical music instruments, cycle and two wheeler repairs.

Best thing about shopping in Jaipur is shopkeeper will give you full attention with utmost politeness and courtesy, and even if you get up without buying anything after two hours, he will still see you off as smilingly as he welcomed you. Well off course, bargaining is up to you.

Jaipur gems are world famous, for over 3 centuries, Jaipur attracted the world’s best gems to be cut, polished and mounted, a tradition harking back to Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II’s time. Who was a committed benefactor of the arts, he drew the best artisans from all over India to craft jeweled sword hilts, pendants, earrings — even ankle bracelets for the royal elephants. Over time, Jaipur’s craftsmen earned a reputation for their skill in cutting particularly brittle stones like emeralds. Many come here for just gems and jewellery shopping, including celebrities.

Holi Playing colors on elephant

If food is one’s ultimate delight then Jaipur is perfect place to treat the taste senses, some of the must eats are : LMB ke Special Ghewar and Puri-Bhaji (Johri Bajar), Ghee Walon Ke raste ke kanji ke baade, Link Road ki Pani-Puri, Murli Wale Ka Paan, Chokhi Dhani’s rich, spicy, sumptuous rajasthani dinner, Sharma Ji ki Faluda Kulfi , Sharma ji Ki Daal ki Pakodi (tripolia), Rawat Ki Pyaj Ki Kachori (Station), Lassiwalas Ki Lassi (M.I.Road), Khole Ke Hunamanji Ki Prasadi (Transport Nagar), Chawala’s Ki Raj Kachori (Raja-Park). Similarly Non-Vegetarians too can have some of the succulent Rajasthani dishes for them in the city. And for sweet lovers Jaipur has some of the best sweet shops in country to name a few LMB, Kaanji, Kanha, BMB etc.

Holi Festival- Happy Colored Tourists

Pink city has its own traditional old world charm; one can find assembly of cows around every temple and major city circles being fed green grass by local residents early in morning and so pigeons and birds eating their share of seeds generously offered by devotees. Parkota or the walled city resonates with sounds of temple bells and prayers from mosques in morning. Jaipur has strong community based society and culture, which can be seen at temples and other places of worships, or at central park, Jawahar circle and various other parks in mornings and evenings.

Major temples are Govind Dev ji, Moti Doongri Ganesh ji, Lakshmi Narayan temple, Galta temple, Jharkhand Mahadev, Khole ke hanuman ji, Amber’s Sila devi , Gadh Ganesh, Dher ke Balaji, Tadkeshwar Maharaj; where thousands visit every day.

Like any other modern growing Indian city it has its own hangout places, coffee shops, tea lounges, bars, restaurants (must visit restaurants are Natraj, Niros and Chanyakya), number of malls, multiplexes etc and as major tourist city and a growing centre for business and administrative conventions, it has almost every single luxury and business brand of hotel’s presence. Its heritage hotel Rambagh Palace and super luxury hotel Raj Vilas Palace have been featuring in top 10 luxury hotels of the world by various travel and life style magazines over the years.

Jaipur city in night

A special mention for “Rajmandir” Cinema, which again makes one enter into dream world, with its enormous opulent lobby and delicate interiors. And for “Polo” lovers Jaipur has polo ground with free entry.

View of City from NaharGarh Fort

Jaipur is a versatile city with rich cultural heritage mixed with modern living, but it has its own sense of pace, culture and hospitality about it. A unique blend unlike any other city, representing colours of Incredible India.

Live that fairytale, visit Jaipur the Pink City!

Deepak

Images from Jaipur-